Understanding the different parts of your electronic drum kit

Overview

This is part 9 of the Using an electronic drum kit with Rock Band FAQ.

An electronic drum kit is made up of a lot of different pieces.  You probably want to know more about them.

The stand

The drum stand is the frame that holds up all of the electronic drum pads and other equipment that make up the kit.  Stands are typically comprised of 1 1/2" diameter metal tubes that are connected together via plastic or metal joints to create the whole assembly.

I don't have much to say here.  There are some differences in how quickly these stands can be torn down and put back up, but that's unlikely to be an issue for most people.

Of course, size is certainly a consideration.  The bigger stands give you room to mount bigger drums and cymbals around you.  But creating such a setup is an integrated project … it makes little sense to buy a big stand and not spend more money on the bigger drums that should go along with it.  What I'm trying to say is…if you're putting together your own kit from the ground up, don't buy a big stand and then realize you only have enough money to put small pads on it.

Clamps and rods

Clamps are attached to the metal tubing and, in turn, secure cymbal arms or steel l-rods that are used to mount the drum pads or cymbals.

The clamps made by Roland are made of plastic.  This generally works fine, but if you are not paying attention, it's possible to overscrew the clamp while securing it and damage the plastic.

Steel clamps such as those made by Gibraltar are definitely superior.  While heavier, the metal clamps do not flex at all and when you are securing a clamp to the stand, the screw used to tighten the clamp will stop very quickly and firmly as opposed to a plastic clamp.

 

Drum pads – rubber vs mesh

Electronic drum pads are made a couple of different ways.  Both types of pads are far superior to the plastic drum set provided with the Rock Band kit.

Lower end pads are made of black rubber.   These  have a nice bounce back to them that helps your drumming.  The material produces a deep thumpy type of sound on their own when you hit them.  Imagine you are hitting a tire with your drumstick.  That's basically what it sounds like.  In terms of shock transferred back to your hands, there is a medium amount of it as compared to the Rock Band kit…much better, but definitely not perfect.  My hands still hurt a little bit if I bang on a rubber pad as a hi hat for too long.

HItting rubber pads is OK, but does not really feel the same as hitting a real drum head.

High end pads, on the other hand, are made of a tightly woven mesh material.  The best way I can think of to describe it is that it feels like you are hitting a trampoline.  The feel is very much like hitting a real drum head.

In addition, mesh pads have good bounce back and are extremely sensitive…you can take a drum stick, let the end fall onto the pad and bounce, and the pad will detect nearly every bounce as it settles down onto the drum pad.   This isn't to say that rubber pads are not sensitive…unless you are trying to breathe on a rubber pad with your sticks, a rubber pad will pick up every hit.  But you can use a very light touch with mesh pads.

There is almost no shock transferred back into your hands from mesh pads due to the bounciness of the mesh material.  This makes them much more comfortable to play on for extended periods of time.

Mesh pads have a quiet sound to them.  To me, they sound like you are hitting a very quiet snare drum.  I would say a mesh pad sounds to me about as 2/3 as loud as a rubber pad…plus the quality of the sound is not thumpy or resonant as a rubber pad, which means it probably won't carry through walls as easily.

A frequent compromise in lower end kits is to use a mesh pad for the snare and rubber pads for the rest of the drums, since the snare is so frequently used with rapid hits.

In addition to the regular pads, special variations include the cymbals (which are usually always rubber) and the kick drum, which can either be rubber or mesh.  Also, you can use a regular drum pad as a hi-hat, but Roland does make special electronic hi-hats which look and behave more like the real thing.

The hi hat pedal

Not much to see here…stepping on this pedal simulates closing the hi-hat.

The cables

Each drum pad or cymbal is patched into the drum brain via a cable.  In every case I've seen, the cable is a 1/4" TRS to 1/4" TRS cable … which is, in layman's terms, the same type of connector that you see on big headphones.

Usually one end of the cable will be an L-shaped connector.  The L-shaped end should be plugged into the drum pad…the L-connector reduces the stress placed directly on the drum connector in the event that you inadvertantly yank or trip on the cable.

Some controls or drums only need a mono connection … for example, the hi-hat pedal and the bass drum.  Roland only sells stereo cables standalone, but the stereo cables work perfectly well as replacements for the mono cables and are still inexpensive.

The drum brain

Every electronic drum connects back into a drum "brain" that actually detects what is being done to each pad and makes the appropriate sounds when an electronic instrument is struck.  You can switch out all kinds of different instrument kits on the brain, which gives you a very large palette of virtual instrument sounds to work with.

The drum brain, in addition to making sounds on its own, also outputs MIDI (Musical Instrument Digital Interface) data when you play on the kit.  This data doesn't consist of the sounds being made by the drum brain…it's actually just data about the drum that was struck, the velocity of the hit, etc.  It's essentially
feeding tablature or sheet music out in real time.

This data can be sent to a PC, where it can then be used for all sort of purposes.  For example, you could simply have your PC act as an infinitely flexible drum brain, or you could actually record your performance (again, as the notes, not the actual sounds themselves).  This MIDI data is the key to connecting your drum kit to Rock Band.  The MSA-P reads this MIDI data in real time and triggers the drum controller to signal the correct hits.

High end drum brains are very expensive and make up a good portion of the cost of a high end electronic drum kit.  Fortunately, for the purposes of Rock Band, it almost doesn't matter what kind of drum brain you get.

Two minor things to watch out for:

You want a drum brain that can customize the MIDI note numbers it sends out when a pad is struck, or else you may be slightly limited in the pads you can use while playing Rock Band.  Every current Roland drum brain can do this, except for the HD-1.  The Yamaha DTXplorer III cannot remap MIDI notes either.

If you are going to be serious about trying to hit the correct drum for a note as opposed to just matching the color of the note on the screen, then you need enough inputs on the drum brain and pads to match.  Again, even the low end TD-3 has tons of inputs, and I haven't seen a case where more inputs would be needed…but it's theoretically possible.

A final work on this … every Roland drum brain that I know of has settings to prevent crosstalk between drums and adjust pad sensitivity.  If you buy a very cheap or generic electronic drum kit, be sure to do your homework and figure out if the kit you are buying has these settings.  Some do not, and it can be a deal breaker for use with Rock Band.  Nothing is worse that hitting one drum and triggering another one if you are trying to play seriously.

 

Conclusion

By now, you should have a pretty good understanding of what you're actually getting when you go out and buy an entire kit like, say, the new TD-9SX.

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Selecting an electronic drum kit

Overview

This is part 3 of the Using an electronic drum kit with Rock Band FAQ.

OK, so you're convinced you'll benefit in some way from getting an electronic drum set for Rock Band.  You'll possibly bypass several months to a year's worth of lessons on real drums.  You'll never miss a hit in the game because the hardware wasn't up to the challenge.  Or maybe you just need a hobby to work on for a few weekends.  You're ready to take the big plunge.

The short answer is that most of you will want to buy a used TD-3SW or TD-6SW kit off Craigslist for around 600-1000 dollars.  For the long answer and some context, read on.

Manufacturers

There are several companies that make drum kits.  The most common and popular models seem to be the Yamaha DTXplorer line or any of the kits by Roland.  The Alesis DM5, Simmons SD7K, and the ultra cheap Ion audio kits are also options that we've seen in use.

Personally, I decided to stick to Roland because they're a very familiar name to me, and they have a very wide range of options available.  Roland also just happens to be one of the premiere names in electronic drums, so you're definitely not getting steered in the wrong direction by going with them.  There's also an excellent online community for Roland V-Drums at http://www.vdrums.com/.

So for the purposes of this guide, we're going to go with Roland.

Used or new

Used.  Definitely used.  You'll save at least a few hundred dollars and these electronic kits don't blow up over time like a car, so you're not losing anything.  In most cases you'll find that someone bought the kit, didn't play it as much as they would have liked, and are unloading it to cut their losses.  Standard new music instrument-itis syndrome.

Also, if you decide to sell the kit later, it will lose little to none of its value.

If you're dead set on buying new, you can go to a Guitar Center.

Where to buy

Craigslist is probably your best bet for getting a used kit.  Just search in your area for "roland" and you'll turn up some options.  You'll be able to pick up the kit locally to avoid shipping costs, and you won't end up in the middle of a bidding war like you might see on eBay.  The only downside is that you will need to be a bit patient if the kit you want isn't up for sale at the present time.  But if you live in a decently sized area, you shouldn't have to wait too long.

eBay is a good option if you don't turn up any local deals for a while and want to get the ball rolling.

Building your own kit from scratch

If you're getting a kit mostly for the purposes of playing Rock Band, and you're not so interested in playing the kit standalone, then an attractive option may be to build your own kit.

Let's talk about why.  Most drum kits are tiered by the quality of the different parts in the kit,  but, as you go higher end, the drum brain becomes a very large portion of the total cost.  Because the quality of the drum brain has basically no bearing on playing Rock Band, building your own kit allows you to devote more of your limited budget to things like nice mesh heads and stands, which can really enhance the physical aspects of your drumming experience.

Remember, a low-end drum brain like the TD-3 sounds just fine and has a good selection of instruments.  What it lacks compared to a TD-20 brain is expansion, extra controls for real-time adjustment, more inputs and outputs, more sounds, programmability via PC, the ability to actually adjust the mathematical model of each instrument, etc.  These are all features where you really need to be at a level above casual to appreciate the difference.

Also, there's no law that says you can't upgrade to a really nice drum brain if you happen to get musically inclined enough to appreciate the features a high end drum brain might have to offer.

The downside to putting together all the parts for your own kit, of course, is that the whole process may be more trouble than you're willing to go through.

The kits

HD-1 – Product details

This is the lowest end kit in the Roland V-Drum line.

The drum brain cannot remap MIDI notes, which is quite limiting for Rock Band.

The kick pedal isn't an actual vertically placed drum where you need a real kick pedal to beat the drum…it's just a pedal with a sensor.  I suppose this saves some money, but it's completely inauthentic…and I have to assume anyone undertaking this project is doing it to realize some level of authenticity.  So this is a minus.

The HD-1 kit itself is extremely compact and pretty quiet for a drum kit, so if you're in seriously confined quarters, it might be your only option.

To sum up, though, I don't recommend buying this kit.  You get way more flexibility and quality by going up one rung in the ladder.

TD-3SW (or the older TD-3Kit) – Product Details

I bought a used TD-3Kit, and it works just fine.

If you buy used, be aware that older kits (TD-3Kit) had all rubber pads and did not have the hi hat.  The new TD-3SW kits generally have a mesh pad for the snare and a specially designed hi hat pad.

The one thing I will say is that the TD-3 drum stand is a little cramped for me, but quite usable.  I stand 5' 8" and have a slim frame.  I could easily imagine that someone taller might need a bigger drum stand to match.

1000 dollars, new.

TD-6SW – Product Details

No advantage over the TD-3 in terms of pads…a standard mesh snare and rubber everywhere else.  The main upgrades are the drum brain and a bigger stand than the TD-3SW, which is nice.

1500 dollars, new.

TD-6SXT – Product Details

Same as the TD-6SW, but with mesh pads.

2000 dollars, new.

TD-9SProduct Details or TD-9SXProduct Details

Slightly better hi-hat and cymbals, and a better drum stand.  The TD-9SX is the mesh head variant of the TD-9S.  The drum brain is better than the TD-6 series, obviously, but this has no impact on Rock Band.  Just released in the US.

TD-12S – Product Details

Hi hat on its own stand.  One mesh drum for the snare and 3 mesh pads for the toms.  2 cymbals and a mesh kick pad.

3000-3200.

TD-20S – Product Details

If you have way too much money and a good amount of room somewhere near your TV, go ahead and get a Roland TD-20 kit.  This is the top of the line and you *cannot* do any bet
ter.  One look at this thing, and you can feel the rock and roll emanating from it.

The hi hat is on its own stand, and you have 5 large mesh drums along with 3 cymbals and a kick.  No fooling around here….this is the real deal.

5500 new.

Who you are

If you're on a super tight budget, you might be able to save some money by going with a really cheap ION audio kit.  I think this is a pretty poor middle ground, however, and I've never investigated this option seriously

If you're like me and want to get into this in an affordable fashion without buying total crap, then look for a Roland TD-3 or TD-6 kit used off of Craigslist.  This should run you anywhere from 600 to 1000 dollars.  The nice thing is that it will be very simple to upgrade parts on the kit in a piecemeal fashion as you become more experienced.

If you're made of money and just want a really good setup with a minimum of fuss, then make sure to buy one of the kits with all mesh heads.  Consider the TD-20S if you want to awe house guests.

Conclusion

Hopefully all of the above has given you a much better feel for what kind of drum kit will be best for you and your Rock Band drumming experience.  Happy hunting!

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Rock Band drumming vs real drumming

Overview

This is part 2 of the Using an electronic drum kit with Rock Band FAQ.

While playing the drums in Rock Band is undoubtedly closer to the real thing than the guitar, it still isn't exactly the same.  So are you really going to learn some useful things about drumming from Rock Band, or are you just fooling yourself?

First, the good news.  You definitely learn a lot of useful things about real drumming from drumming in Rock Band.  Here's a list of different things to be aware of as you play the game so you know what you're missing out on … and what you aren't.

Things you won't learn from playing Rock Band

As a note, the list of things you don't learn is actually more of a list of things that Rock Band doesn't explicitly teach you.  In nearly all of the cases below, being exposed more thoroughly to music via Rock Band is still far superior for your skill set than having no exposure whatsoever.

1. How to memorize a song and play it blind … and how to read tablature.  Obiviously, you need to memorize songs if you want to play music with other people in a band.  Then again, this is true of reading from anything, so it's hard to call this a minus.   What might be a minus would be if you use the visual cues on the screen exclusively instead of feeling the beat by playing to the audio and just using the tablature on the screen as a cue to guide your hits.

If you're really serious, however, you can try to play the song without looking at the screen…and this would arguably be an extremely effective way of memorizing a song and training yourself to feel the rhythm yourself rather than relying on the game.

2. Controlling the velocity and character of your hits.  Obviously, Rock Band teaches timing, but controlling the velocity and where you hit instruments is also important in getting the sound right when you play real music.

3. How to play with more than four pads and a pedal.  Real drum kits have more percussion choices than that…typically 7-9 at a minimum, and we're not counting rim shots where you hit the edges of a particular instrument.  This is speculation, but it's not hard to imagine the reduction in game was done out of a desire to produce a palatable experience for all kinds of game players, as well as practical limitations surrounding a drum controller that needs to be affordable for use with a game.

The way Rock Band works around this incongruency is by charting multiple instruments into the same lane.  If you're interested in translating some of the Rock Band experience into practical drumming experience, this is the most difficult difference to work around .  Fortunately, in most cases, the drum charts have been designed so that at least the same instruments are consistently mapped into the same lanes across all songs.  So it's simply up to you to make sure that you hit the correct instrument  for any particular note that comes at you.  Run through a song a few times, and when you're ready, you should have a feel for what instrument is being hit at the appropriate times.

4. How to freestyle or play great fills.  If you want to lay down a funky groove with the drums by yourself, you probably aren't going to get a great sense of this from Rock Band alone. 

5. How to sett the tempo for the rest of the band.  The drummer is like the metronome for the rest of the band, so it's important that you be able to set the beat consistently yourself, not follow one that's been laid out for you.  In Rock Band, the song plays along and basically cues you to the timing of the music.

6. Good posture, relaxation, style, grip, etc.  Without someone looking over your shoulder, you might pick up some bad instinctual habits simply because you don't know any better.  Look for some drumming tutorials online so that you get off on the right foot.  Expert Village has some that can get you started.  Do this early on so that at least you know if you're doing something wrong and can steer yourself clear in the learning phases.

7. The hi-hat pedal and/or double kick technique.  Opening and closing the hi-hat with your other foot is important in drumming, and Rock Band doesn't really simulate this.  With the electronic kit modification, you can make an effort to play songs "correctly", but there is no way to do this if you just use the standard Rock Band kit.

Also, since the Rock Band kit only comes with one pedal, the game only charts songs to be played with a single kick pedal.

The above cons really fall into two categories … thinking you know something you don't, and habituating too far in the wrong directions early on without proper guidance.  But again, some exposure is still far better than none.

Things you WILL learn from playing Rock Band

With very few exceptions, playing on the drums on expert difficulty in Rock Band is identical in timing to the real drum track of the song.  This means you ARE learning the following.

1. Timing – The game obviously teaches you to hit notes on beat.  This is the first and foremost thing you do as a drummer, so this is a great starting point.

2. Hand/foot independence – If you have no training in this area, you're basically relying on a lifetime of learned and instinctual habits linking your hands and feet together that have to do with counterbalancing your movements as you walk or run.  Breaking these habits is HARD.  If you get better at Rock Band, you *will* be breaking those habits.  Also a very good thing.

For example, the offbeat sections of Here It Goes Again, Wave of Mutilation, and Reptilia used to give me tons of trouble.  I would zone out, my hands and feet would move together and I would fail or barely pass the section.  Just a few weeks later and I'm now at the point where I can see the beat coming and consciously react properly instead of losing control.

3. Speed – Without practice, you won't be able to hold fast rolls rhythmically and quickly, nor will you be able to do those quick hits with your foot on the kick pedal.  Instead you'll be spazzing out or just trying to hit notes without any precision or rhythm.  Rock Band gives you an excellent way to practice rolls as you play and gives you instant feedback when you do well.

In particular, certain songs like The Hand That Feeds, Orange Crush, Ballroom Blitz, and Run to the Hills consistently ramp up the speed and difficulty of rolls that you need to perform in order to pass these songs.  After a while, you'll start to instinctively know what an 8 note roll feels like and how to pull one off.

4. Muscle memory of many REAL drumming patterns – Rock Band gives you instant exposure to a wide variety of drumming patterns.  When you play these, you're really getting to play around with different styles of drumming.  With enough exposure, you'll be able to link new patterns that you see to ones that you've practiced before and be generally used to trying out new styles because you've been doing it all along in the game.

5. Endurance – Drumming isn't like running on a treadmill or anything, but it certainly is still a bit of a workout.  The foot pedal, in particular, can be tiring for newcomers.  Quick double or triple hits in an extended series will quickly wear you out.  Also, as your playing style loosens up, you'll be moving
your arms and body more by allowing your momentum and rhythm to carry you from hit to hit.  This actually conserves energy and is a good thing.  On the other hand, you can use that confidence and flow to become a showier drummer, which uses more energy.

Welcome Home, Paranoid, and Maps are examples of songs that I've come back to after a couple of weeks and breezed through because my foot wasn't giving out on me halfway into the song (along with other general skill improvements, of course).  I'm still a bit stiff on songs when I play, but as I advance skill levels, I find myself starting to loosen up on the easier tiers when I play.  I let the sticks bounce more instead of trying to control them all the way up and down each stroke.   Again, this is also a good thing.

The bottom line is that if you play enough, you'll eventually find yourself able to keep up with the faster and more punishing songs.  You also won't be as tense as you begin to commit some songs to memory.

6. Sticking.  Sticking is all about knowing which notes to hit with which hand.  It doesn't take a genius to figure out that if you want to hit a series of notes and end the last note on a drum to your right, you probably want the note before that on another drum to be hit with your left hand so that your right hand can be in flight for a little more time.

Rock Band doesn't force you to learn this per se, but it quickly becomes apparent that you're never going to nail some of the patterns in the game if you don't figure this out on your own.  After a while, you'll start instinctually  recognizing how to stick certain patterns.

It's still important to read a bit about sticking because some sticking techniques are ones that you won't be likely to find on your own.  Here's a good post on sticking to get you started.

7. Most importantly, if you play Rock Band, with or without a real drum kit, you'll have a lot of fun doing it.  The instantaneous feedback you get from the game, as well as being able to see your scores, compare them with friends, and easily download new songs all add up to one thing … a desire to play more and do better.  You'll also begin to listen to and pick out the percussion parts in songs that you never paid attention to before.

Personally, I'm just not the type of guy that would enjoy sitting at a kit and practicing to a metronome for hours on end.  Playing along with Rock Band gives me:

  1. A very easy way of trying new songs every week via downloadable content.
  2. Instant feedback when I miss notes.
  3. A clear and direct way of measuring my improvement on each song via the scoring system.

Motivation and enjoyment are perhaps the most important qualities you'll need to learn faster and advance your drumming skills … and Rock Band provides that in spades.

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Advantages of an electronic drum kit over the standard Rock Band drums

Overview 

This is part 1 of the Using an electronic drum kit with Rock Band FAQ.

An electronic drum kit has several major advantages over a standard Rock Band drum kit.  This shouldn't be surprising…after all, a drum kit made for seriously playing music costs several hundred dollars…on the low end!  In this case, you do get what you pay for…and what you get is listed point by point below.

Advantages

1. Quieter play. The plastic pads of the standard Rock Band drum kit are jarringly loud and somewhat unpleasant to strike.  They make exactly the type of sound you would expect to hear from hitting a large piece of plastic.  The shock from hitting hard plastic pads also transfers back to your hands through the drum sticks, which can make extended play painful after an hour or so.  It literally feels like carpal tunnel syndrome if you have sensitive hands.

See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSu-6rpvKJU and skip to 1:22 for an example of the sound made by the Rock Band drum kit when you hit it.

An electronic drum set will either make a lower rubbery thump sound or a quieter trampoliney type of sound, depending on the type of drum pads you get.  Both are vastly superior to the clacking noises produced by the Rock Band drum kit.

2. Authentic and durable kick pedal performance. The kick pedal included with Rock Band is prone to breaking and behaves significantly differently from a real kick pedal.

Real kick pedals are using the pedal to lever a beater over into a bass drum.  The Rock Band pedal, on the other hand, just has a spring in it.  This means the resistance on the pedal increases significantly as you press it down.  Pressing this repeatedly can grow tiring, especially if you use a heel down technique where you keep your foot flat against the pedal.

Second, the Rock Band pedal triggers in mid throw.  Obviously, a real bass drum "triggers" when the beater hits the drum and your foot stops as a result.  So playing on the Rock Band pedal is basically training you incorrectly in this respect.

Third, real kick pedals are made of metal and simply aren't going to break.  The Rock Band 1 pedal is made of plastic and has no support in the toe area of the pedal, meaning that part of the pedal is likely to snap off over time if you give it a good pounding.

See the following video for an example – "Rock Band Kick Pedal Breaks mid song".

3. Greatly superior durability. The Rock Band drum kit is less prone to breaking than the pedal itself, but can and does wear out or break over time if you are hard on the kit.  The plastic pads can cave in or the sensors can become unresponsive for a number of reasons.  Some of the top players have gone through at least 8 kits via warranty replacement and counting.

An electronic drum kit, on the other hand, is designed to take a pounding.  You can give the pads a good beating and not worry about it.  They've been designed to take hard hits.

4. Reliable hit detection.  The Rock Band drum kit itself simply drops hits.  Especially quick hits.  A defective hit makes playing songs with rolls impossible because the controller itself may end up dropping a good percentage of your hits and cause you to fail.  There are all sorts of creative mods that people have tried to implement to get their drums working properly.  Again, if you look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSu-6rpvKJU, a modification involving socks wrapped around the pads helps tighten up the sensitivity of the Rock Band drum kit so that it can be used on expert level songs.

Even a basic electronic drum kit isn't going to miss hits.  It's designed for playing real music.

The opposite problem can also occur…cross triggering between pads or erroneous double hits on a single pad are an issue with some Rock Band drum kits.  Electronic drums suffer from this problem less, and actually feature settings in the drum brain so that you can adjust the sensitivity of each pad and mask double hits on the same pad.

And…although this doesn't apply to most gamers, if you play Rock Band at a high level, dropped or double hits are a SERIOUS problem.  An electronic drum kit could raise the level of your game significantly and ensure that your scores are all about you and not how lucky you got with the cheap Rock Band drum kit that day.

See the following video for an example of missed hits on a Rock Band drum kit – "Faulty Rock Band drums, READ THE INFO PEOPLE"

5. Adjustable layout. A real drum kit is laid out more comfortably than the Rock Band drum kit.  It's pretty obvious that the Rock Band drum kit is an accessory for playing a game, not an actual product.  You can customize each of the pads on an electronic drum kit to the exact height and tilt that you want, and the stand will naturally surround you as opposed to being this tiny kit that sits in front of you.

Check out this high end setup … it speaks for itself – "Rockband using Roland TD-20 V-Drums".

6. Play real drums. You can play an electronic drum kit outside of Rock Band.  It's a real musical instrument.  No further explanation necessary!

Disadvantages

For the sake of completeness, we should also mention these. =)

1. Electronic drums cost more money.  A lot more.  Rock Band drums cost about 50 dollars standalone.  Expect a good low end electronic drum kit setup to cost around 1000 dollars when all is said and done.

2. Electronic drums aren't Rock Band drums.  You may get so used to playing on a nice drum kit that you won't be able to play so well as your friend's house on his standard Rock Band drum kit. Personally speaking, I'm light years beyond where I used to be in terms of raw skill due to enjoying playing on this modification so much.  If I go to a friend's house, I just don't worry about the score.

If, for some reason, you need to compete seriously on a standard Rock Band kit, then you might want to keep one around to practice on.

Hey, life could be worse, right?

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Using an electronic drum set with Rock Band

Overview

This FAQ describes how to connect an electronic drum kit to the game Rock Band, which is currently out for XBox 360, PS2, PS3, and Wii.

Update 1/1/2009: Much of this FAQ focuses on building the MSA-P as an adapter … currently, the built-in GHWT drum MIDI input is likely to be a much more accessible means of using your electronic drum kit.  See the article about alternative ways of connecting kits to Rock Band for more details.  Other articles still apply.

Quick Q&A

All of the following questions are covered in detail in the main articles, but for the sake of a quick overview, read the following. 

How much does this cost?

Assuming you already have a Rock Band drum controller to modify, the adapter itself will cost around 100 dollars to build.  A used drum kit will be about 750 dollars if you go reasonably low end.  Top of the line electronic drum kits can run up to 5500 dollars new.

How long does it take to perform the modification?

The modification itself will probably take about half a day to complete once all the parts are in front of you.

Why would I want to do this?

Playing on an electronic drum kit is a more authentic and higher quality experience.  Rebound, foot action, and the room you have to move around the kit are all better and adjustable on a real kit.

In most cases, you can learn to hit the "correct" instruments and still play the game.  Also, for extremely competitive players that are aiming for high scores, an electronic drum kit completely overcomes the limitations of the "cheap" Rock Band drum kit.  Any misses will be your fault, and not the equipment's.

Who is using this modification?

Well, in addition to several enthusiasts you probably don't know, some of the top drummers, such as someguy913 and Javman158, have also started using their drum kits with Rock Band via this modification.

What equipment are you using?

A Roland TD-3 drum brain on the default MDS-3C stand.  All pads are upgraded to mesh.  I have a PD-120 for the snare and 1 PD-85 and 2 PD-80's for the toms.  The kick drum is a KD-8 rubber pad.  I actually prefer this over the mesh kick drums in higher end kits.  Cymbals are the default rubber ones that come with the TD-3 kit.

The drum throne is a Roc-n-Soc Nitro.

Drum sticks are Vic Firth SD4N's.

Kick pedal is a low end cheapo Yamaha.  Does the job, but I'm planning on upgrading.

Main articles

Without further ado, here are the detailed articles you should review to understand the modification.

Rock Band drumming vs real drumming

  1. Rock Band drumming vs real drumming – what you learn, and what you don't  

Understanding electronic drum kits

  1. Advantages of an electronic drum kit over the standard Rock Band drum kit
  2. Selecting an electronic drum kit for use with Rock Band
  3. Understanding the different parts of your electronic drum kit

 Buying, building, and configuring the MSA-P for use with Rock Band

  1. Using an electronic drum kit with Rock Band – The shopping list
  2. How to expose the controller inputs of the Rock Band drum kit
  3. Wiring up the MSA-P and the enclosure
  4. Programming the MSA-P and your drum brain for use with Rock Band

Other topics

  1. Selecting drum sticks for Rock Band
  2. Alternative solutions for hooking up electronic drum kits

Appendix A – Original posts and articles

Original forum thread on rockband.com – Rock Band with Electronic Drums (HOWTO)
Forum thread on rockband.scorehero.com – Roland TD-6SW (Electronic Drumset) in Rock Band w/Vids!
Forum thread about this FAQ on rockband.scorehero.com – Complete Rock Band electronic drum kit FAQ, feedback welcome

Flash's blog

MSA-P enclosure (limited supply) – http://www.markbusch.com/pics.htm

Moriah's Web – Rock Band Uber Mod! 

Homemade drum kit – http://www.rockband.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53981

sethmeisterg's MIDI to PS2/PS3 adapter (a well received secondary option for those players that don't want to build their own adapter and have a PS2/PS3) – http://www.rockband.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56287

Appendix B – Videos of electronic drum kits being used with Rock Band

Appendix C – Q&A for jackasses

You're dumb for spending so much money on a game.

The people performing this modification probably make more money than you do and can afford to spend it on something they enjoy.  Which raises the question of who is really the dumb one.

You aren't a real drummer!  Hop in front of my kit and let's see how you do!

Nobody here is claiming to be a "real" drummer after playing the drums in Rock Band…although nearly all of the top drummers in Rock Band ARE real drummers and play the game and enjoy it for what it is.  However, there are a lot of important fundamentals that can be learned by playing Rock Band.  These are outlined in the article "Rock Band drumming vs real drumming – what you learn, and what you don't".

Conclusion

Credit goes to anyone and everyone who contributed to the above threads and took risks on buying the necessary equipment and performing modifications "in the dark".  We couldn't have done it without you.

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Recruiting Wall – Feb 2008

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Anatomy of a "House, M.D." Episode

Like a lot of other people, I really enjoy the series House.  At its core, it's a medical drama.  But the chararacterization is what really makes the show tick.  House is a brilliant asshole of a doctor.  Everyone else on the show is a foil for his antics.

By its fourth season, however, House is incredibly formulaic in the structure of its episodes.  To their credit, they did manage to shake things up a bit this season with the Apprentice-esque setup in the first half of the season.

Each episode typically opens with the person in question getting sick in some rather dramatic fashion.  If you're lucky and blessed with a special episode, there may be some misdirection involved where one person acts woozy, but then someone else gets REALLY sick.

The next 5 minutes of the episode involve someone trying to convince House why this case is interesting enough for him to spend time on.  The next ten minutes are spent testing various theories and cures, at which point something dramatic happens … either vital signs crash or some really weird symptom manifests itself.  Cut to commercial!

We come back and they've managed to do something to buy some more time.  At this point we come in for a mish mash of the following.

1. House insults patients.
2. House insults his proteges.
3. House makes inappropriate comments about Cuddy's cleavage.
4. House suggests a dangerous treatment.
5. Someone has to talk the patients into a potentially dangerous treatment.
6. Someone mentions lupus or couple of other goto diseases that are never actually the disease in question.
7. Proteges break into patient's home to get more info.
8. House catches the silly patient lying about something.
9. Small bits of character development that rotate between anyone that isn't House.
10. House notices something small about a regular and correctly deduces a major piece of new and hopefully saucy information.

I'm sure there's a drinking game for this show somewhere.

At around the 50 minute mark, it's time for the episode to wrap itself up.  Nobody has any idea what's going on and things are looking grim for our Jane Doe.  Luckily, House will be having an innocuous conversation with a colleague, (usually Wilson) during which something will be said that will trigger something in House's stream of consciousness.  It typically goes something like this.

Wilson: You're a bitter and small person, House.
House: Yes…yes…small…just like the parasitic amoebas of the Lower Nigerian Basin! (runs off to cure the patient)

There's about a 50/50 chance that the diagnosis will come in just before the patient is about to go in for some major life changing surgery that is based on a previous incorrect guess.  Thus, our patient is saved in an appropriately dramatic fashion.

Despite the above, I forgive the writers because House definitely isn't a show pretending to be something else.  They do a pretty good job of giving the audience what they want…which is an irascible guy who says what everyone is thinking in the most creatively mean way possible and still gets away with it.  It's sort of like watching Triumph the Insult Comic Dog in the form of a genius doctor.

Um, I think I just came up with a brilliant Conan skit. =)  Too bad the strike is over!

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Kill a tree, read a book

I have a lot of gadget related things to blog about … like the new phone I just got (Sprint Touch … SERO plan), bluetooth headsets, and so on.  But, somehow, I feel it's bad form to saturate this blog with too many posts in a row on gadgets.  So why don't we talk about something else?

Recently I bought some books off the "Books Recommended by Charlie Munger" list.  When someone as smart as Charlie Munger recommends a book to read, why not listen?  I haven't felt like I've had the time to read a lot of books since joining Google, but as I've roughly settled in after a year or so, I'm making the time now.

The first book I chose to read was "The Wealth and Poverty of Nations: Why Some Are So Rich and Some So Poor?" I'm about halfway through.

My takeaways right now…

I thank my lucky stars that I live in a country as safe as the United States.  Civilized behavior is not the default state of the human animal.  The fact that it IS by and large the default in this country is something to be immensely respectful of.  Barbaric acts were simply the normal status of affairs a few centuries ago.  Placed in a modern day context, I cannot imagine that a soldier in Iraq, for example, would easily be able to turn that switch off and on.

Personal freedoms and property ownership were the harbingers of economic growth in societies.  Cities all over Europe attracted industrious individuals with the promise of these freedoms, precisely because there was no other way to do it.  Another funny thing … free men not only work harder, they fight harder too.

Similarly, honesty and fairness were also quite rare, but eventually became required social lubricant for the really productive societies.  I always got that feeling from reading other Warren Buffett and Charlie Munger material, but it was nice to see it here in another context.

The "wrong" cultures and religions dragged many societies down.  The Chinese and Muslim cultures had opportunities to advance just as the European societies did, but those opportunities were never seized.  When religion stamped out everything (like science) that didn't agree with its preconcieved tenets, it also stamped out innovation and discovery along with it.  Cultures where serfdom reigned didn't care to do anything productive with their discoveries…after all, only the ruling class was going to benefit.  Who cared about being more efficient?

However, the fragmentation of religion and culture in Europe helped to stunt the negative impacts of "bad" culture, government and religion.  In fact, that division may have been the primary reason for Europe getting ahead of the rest of the world.  You also have to think that this is very much the model the founding fathers were going for in designing the United States…limited federal government and different states competing with each other on the merits.  Unfortunately it seems like as a country we've increasingly moved away from this.

Many stagnant societies, amazingly enough, contributed to their own failure by driving out their most productive members…often new and ambitious immigrants looking to create a better way.  Such ignorant behavior caused irreparable delays in advancement.

Finally, war is an exorbitant drain on resources and stalls the development of any country engaging in it.

My thoughts on this book, of course, can only be partially expressed since I'm only halfway through the thing.  However, one thought I do continue to have as I read is "Do our presidential candidates bother reading any of this stuff?"  It is abundantly clear that there are certain things that are just bad ideas based on past experience.  Yet we seem quite eager to repeat these mistakes as a country.  Surely we should know better?

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A quick analysis of the MacBook Air

So Apple finally announced their ultraportable notebook.  One question … what took you so long, Apple?

It's a nice option for Mac lovers.  It's not so competitive, however, compared to the options in the PC space.

Pros

  • There's finally an ultraportable Mac option.  Yep, if you been wanting a really light and portable Mac, the wait has been long and painful….and now it's over.
  • 13.3" screen.  A screen of this size is unusual in the ultraportable class.  You tend to see 11.1" or 12.1" screens.

Cons

  • Design scheme is tired.  Come on guys, the aluminum look is starting to wear thin.  Add some color to the lineup or shuffle things around a bit.
  • Storage options are below par.  80GB max?  The Sony TZ can have both a 64GB SSD as a primary drive and a 250GB HDD as the secondary drive.
  • Battery is not user replaceable.  Apple does this with a lot of their products for the sake of aesthetics…but in a two thousand dollar investment, it's more painful issue.  Batteries tend to go bad within a couple of years, so if you're planning on hanging onto the notebook for longer, you might find yourself having to service the notebook.  Also junky if you're hopping on an international flight or doing some heavy traveling.
  • Ports and accessories are lacking.  One USB port?  No ethernet jack?  No integrated WWAN option?  These are livable problems, but smaller laptops have already done much better in the ports department.

Still, let's face reality.  If you want a Mac and you're a fan of traveling light, you have no other options.  Grin and bear it. Life could be worse.  =)

Personally, I went with the ThinkPad x60 last year (and painted it to take care of the looking nice part) and if I were to buy a notebook right now, it would probably be the Sony TZ.

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Hello again – some advice on wireless networking hardware

Thought I would get back into the groove of things here.

Let's start back up on wireless hardware.  Seeing as how I live in an apartment complex, getting this right has been a bigger issue for me as of late.  I've run through more wireless hardware than I care to admit, but I've finally settled on the right combination of stuff for me and I'm going to share that with you in the hopes of saving you folks the same pains I went through.

First of all, if you want the simple advice…buy the D-Link DIR-655 as a home router or wireless gateway.  I use it personally and have recommended it to tons of friends, all with basically flawless results.  Check out the review of this device at www.smallnetbuilder.com for more info.

For more complicated advice, read on.

Solving the home gateway/wireless access point problem

Initially, I had a cheap 802.11g Netgear router.  This was crashing and slowing down constantly, so I decided to upgrade.  I'd already had pretty bad experiences with a lot of networking hardware, so this time I decided to try something with a bit more of a reputation … Apple hardware.

I bought the AirPort Extreme 802.11n (Fast Ethernet version) and installed it.

Initially, I was pretty happy with the AirPort Extreme.  Aesthetics matter to me and this thing actually looks nice in addition to doing its job.  However, after a couple of months I eventually ran into a problem.  I was testing a lot of Ubuntu based server installations, including a DHCP server on my home network.  The problem is that you simply cannot disable the DHCP server on the AirPort Extreme.  This isn't an issue for most people, of course … but keeping up to date on this stuff is important to me both personally and professionally.  So I reluctantly went looking for new hardware.

I eventually stumbled across SmallNetBuilder and read their review of the DIR-655.  Without a doubt, SmallNetBuilder is one of the most thorough sites around to review networking hardware.  I purchased an DIR-655 to replace the AirPort Extreme.

The DIR-655 is a great piece of hardware … it did everything that the AirPort Extreme did, but was more configurable, handled P2P traffic better, and even has a Quality of Service engine that prioritizes gaming/VOIP traffic over other types of traffic.  It's also extremely stable.

I'm currently using the gaming variant of the DIR-655 today.  We'll get to that in a moment.

Solving the wireless bridging problem – Intro

The next problem I had to solve was that only a couple of rooms in my apartment are wired.  The unwired room needs a high speed connection in it because that's where I hide the big ugly servers I own.  I did not want to run a cable between the rooms for aesthetic reasons.  So that left only one option … a fast wireless bridge.

Wireless bridging does not appear to be a very common scenario in consumer networking hardware…and is even less common amongst draft 11n hardware.  I was going to need draft 11n performance, though…bridging HD content over the wireless wouldn't be acceptable over anything slower.

We're not done yet … most networking hardware today uses the 2.4GHz band.  This is fine, but if you live in an apartment complex, there are tons of other people around using similar networking hardware…on top of the microwaves and cordless phones that are all sharing the same frequency.  Do you want to lose the connection to your HDTV server if someone decides to microwave some food?  Not a good idea.

A much better alternative is the 5GHz band.  Because the channel spectrum here is so uncrowded, you can bond two channels together to double the throughput.  You're also unlikely to have interference from anyone else around you because of the huge legacy investment in 802.11b/g.

So … now it becomes clear what the ideal solution is.  A wireless 802.11n bridge that supports 5GHz, without any other weird gotchas, will let you create a high performance bridge between rooms in your home or apartment without having to run ugly wires or knocking holes in walls.  Splendid!

It's not that easy to search out the above requirements, but long story short, I eventually realized that the AirPort Extreme has an "Extend a wireless network" function which actually does exactly what I needed at the time … creates an 802.11n wireless bridge.  It's highly unlikely that wireless bridging will work with hardware from different manufacturers… but I just happened to have one AirPort Extreme lying around, so…

Trying the AirPort Extreme as a wireless bridging solution – Spotty at best

I went out and got another AirPort Extreme (Gigabit version).  The DIR-655 would be the home gateway and the two AirPort Extremes would bridge the unwired room in my apartment.

In theory, this should have worked.  In practice, it didn't, and it was for the following reasons.

1. Reconfiguration of the AirPort Extreme can be unstable.  By this, I mean that you can set things a certain way on the base station and they won't work.  However, if you reset the base station to its default settings and configure it from scratch, things do work.  Because I was switching frequently between AP/bridging modes to test certain parameters, I would spend an hour trying to figure out why something wasn't working, only to reset everything and have the AirPort Extreme suddenly fix itself.  This leads to tough issues with troubleshooting since you have many "What the hell, I did that already, why is it working now?" moments.

2. 7.1.1 firmware transmits at an amazing 10MB/sec using WPA2 encryption.  Unfortunately, the latest firmware is 7.2.1.  7.1.1 is also, as I learned with some pain, unstable with P2P traffic running over it as a wireless bridge.  Last, but not least, the newest Gigabit versions of the AirPort extreme are only valid with versions 7.2 of the firmware or higher.

3. 7.2.1 firmware fixes the stability issue mentioned above, but kills bridging performance.  You can actually get 10MB/sec throughput over two bridged AirPort Extremes with the 7.1.1 firmware on the main AirPort Extreme, but 7.2.1 on the main AirPort Extreme drops that to around 2.5 MB/sec.  The throughput rises to around 6MB/sec if you disable encryption, so presumably there is something weird going on with accelerated onboard encryption and the AirPort Extreme.  Frankly, 2.5MB/sec for most people is still OK, but if you want to stream HD wirelessly, it's too close to the edge to be decent.

4. Several advanced options are hidden by default and can only be accessed if you know to ctrl or option click on the dropdowns.  For example, the stability of the connection on my AirPort Extreme to other 5GHz band hardware was spotty until I manually forced the channel to a high band frequency (153 instead of the default 36).

You would not believe how much time it took to track down all of the above issues. =)

Well, I put up with the junky throughput of the 7.2.1 firmware for a while, hoping that Apple would release some firmware to fix these ridiculous problems.  They didn't.

Solving the wireless bridging problem – DGL-4500 + DAP-1555 = success!

After a few months of putting up with low throughput and no new firmware in sight, I decided to try again. Some things had changed.

The D-Link DGL-4500 was released a couple of months ago and is the gaming equivalent of the DIR-655.  I have no idea why the DGL-4500 would be better for gaming compared to the DIR-655 as they both have the same QoS engine…but the major difference in terms of hardwar
e is that the DGL-4500 can use either the 2.4Ghz or 5GHz bands.

On top of that, the D-Link DAP-1555 was also recently released.  This is a product designed specifically to be a wireless 802.11n bridge and works with either the DGL-4500 or another DAP-1555.

Since I was so pleased with the DIR-655, I bought the DGL-4500 to replace the DIR-655 and packed up the DIR-655 as a Christmas gift for a lucky and unsuspecting friend.  The DGL-4500 has behaved exactly like the DIR-655 in other respects … remarkably stable and fast.

The DAP-1555 arrived and was very simple to configure via a web interface.  It immediately bridged to the DGL-4500 and has been working flawlessly ever since.

Final thoughts

1. The DGL-4500 is now acting as my home gateway and as a 5GHz access point.

2. The DAP-1555 is wirelessly bridged to the DGL-4500 and is getting around 5MB/sec of encrypted throughput…no weird gotchas doing so  either, which is remarkably important, as you can see from the above.  It's not the 10MB/sec of the AirPort Extreme with the 7.1.1 firmware, but it's enough that I'm happy with it.

3. I reconfigured one of the AirPort Extremes to be a 2.4GHz b/g/n access point for visitors.

4. I brought home the other AirPort Extreme to be a 5GHz access point at my parents' house.

So, the story is over.  After all of the above … I finally have a home networking setup I can be happy with.  The wireless bridge handles P2P downloads easily and has plenty of bandwidth to stream the TV I record to the other rooms in my apartment.  Simple in theory, but difficult in practice to implement.

I'll leave you with these words.  Every time I go through something like this, I am reminded constantly of how much of a gap there is between saying something like "I want to stream HD wirelessly around my home" and actually implementing it.  Good product philisophies find a way to magically translate those English statements by normal people into reality with a minimum of fuss.  And we're not even close yet, folks.  Not even close.

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